11.10.11

‎1999 Chevrolet Camaro. Street legal/drag strip ready! $18,500

1964 Chevrolet Impala SS $16,500

1999 Chevrolet Camaro. Street legal/drag strip ready! $18,500

1999 Chevrolet Camaro. Street legal/drag strip ready! $18,500

408 c.i. stroker motor. nitrous. racing seats. 5 point harness. 8point roll cage. full drag suspension. 4" cowl hood w/ racing stripes. coming with weld racing wheels/slicks. also comes with 19" wheels & tires. T-top car. Ceramic coated long tube headers. So many items to list. CAR is not STOCK its a SLEEPER.


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1964 Chevrolet Impala SS $16,500


1964 Chevrolet Impala SS $16,500 (717)-801-0352

1964 Chevrolet Impala SS, Real Numbers match SS, 327, auto on floor, Frame off resto, All Original and Laser STRAIGHT body Lines, Brand new 20 inch coys wrapeed with P-zero's with the factory Dog Dish SS in the Trunk. $16,500
(717)-801-0352 YORK, PA


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10.10.11

Classic Camaro Buyers

Over the years I have loved the Chevrolet camaro, it's not quite like any other car ever built, my first muscle cars was a 1969 Z/28 camaro and I loved that car, I hope to help some one else find their perfect muscle car by writing this article.

In this article I will discuss some of the things that you should look at when you go to buy a classic camaro, we'll start off by checking the numbers on the car, and look at body, mechanical, electrical, and every other system that I can think of that will help you in the right car

This classic camaro buyers guide will help you with the main things that you should know before you buy a classic camaro.

Let's dive in to this head first if your looking to restore the car, you should never fail to decode that numbers on the car, you'll have vin codes, RPO codes, casting numbers, and all of these numbers need to match up just right, unless you don't care about authenticity.

The Numbers To Decode:

1.The Vin Tag
2.The RPO Code
3.The Casting Numbers
4.Engine Date Codes

Next we'll move on to the body work on the car, you obviously want to get a car that is in the best shape possible for the amount of money that you have to spend, this is where you'll begin to need the that you have to spend, this is where you'll begin to need the patience, this could take a while, you may have to look at a lot of cars.

Body Work:
Well do a general inspection of the outside of the car first, during this inspection you'll bee looking for the tell tail signs of rust, and bad body repair work, these things should not be that difficult to see, you'll be looking for bubbles in the paint, wavy body work, or cracking plastic filler.

Panel Alignment:
1.Gaps should not be wider then 1/16 - 1/8 inch.
2.Misaligned panels indicate that the car has been wrecked.
3.Check the hood to fender alignment.
4.Check the hood to header panel alignment.
5.Check the hood to cowl panel alignment.
6.Check the fender to door gap & alignment.
7.Check the door to quarter panel gap & alignment.
8.Check the deck lid rear & side gaps for alignment.

Body Surface:
1.Check the body of the car for wavy body work.
2.Check for cracking plastic filler.
3.Check for bubble in the paint work.
4.Check for obvious dents.
5.Check for dull or faded paint.
6.Check for rust in the wheel wells.
7.Check for rust around the wheel wells.
8.Check for rust in the rocker panel.
9.Check the firewall for rust, if you can see it.
10.Check the trunk floor for rust.

Check The Bumper Height:
1.Make sure that the bumpers are not touching the body of the car, or sagging.

Under Hood & Engine:
First you'll want to check the general condition of the engine, and engine compartment, check the condition of the paint, and also check the chrome surfaces for peeling, dulling, or bluing.

1.Check for originality, if your a collector looking to add a new car to your collection, this might be the most important part of the process, basically you'll be looking for things that look out of place, or things that look like they don't belong.

2.Check the maintenance of the car, look at all of the hoses, electrical connections, belts, gaskets, fluid levels, engine oil, brake fluid, water in the battery.

3.Check the condition of the engine, if saving money is a concern to you, you should pay close attention to this step in the process, have the owner of the car start the engine, check the tail pipe for smoke when the car fist starts, after it warms up, and when it's revved up, listen for knocks, clunks, clicks, and rattles.

4.Check for leaks on the car, be sure to check the valve cover gaskets, check the front, and rear of the intake manifold for oil leaks, check the brake master cylinder for leaks, check all hoses for leaks, check the rear main seal this is a lot of work to fix if it leaks, check the oil pan for leaks, this is also a huge ordeal to fix, if you pay attention you can save yourself a lot of agony.

Interior Check:
1.Check the interior for obvious rips and tears in the fabric on the seats, and the doors, look for chrome peeling, light bulbs that no longer work, gauges that are so foggy that you can't even see them.

2.Check the center console for cracks, and mounting ears that have been broken.

3.Check all plastic items for cracking, and general sun rot, and exposure.

4.Also you should always check the rubber seals around the doors of the car, these should always be checked, I'd just replace them if it were my car.

5.Check the steering wheel for wear, such as cracks, missing areas of plastic, or it the car has tilt, or telescoping steering you need to make sure that all of those things are working right.

The Road Test:
1.Unless the car doesn't run, you should always road test it, no matter how much the owner wants to get out of it, during this test you should check the wipers, turn signals, gauges, lights, and don't forget to listen for bumps, knocks rattles, clanks, clunks,and the like.

2.Check the gauges for accuracy, lighting, and general appearance.

3.Mechanical check, during this check you'll be testing all of the mechanical areas of the car, you should check all of these things first in place, and then as the car is moving.

4.Check the park brake to see if it holds on an incline.

5.Doe's the manual transmission pop out of gear, this means a transmission rebuild, or at least replacing the synchros, does it shift smoothly, or is it hard to move between the gears, this indicate either a linkage problem, or low transmission oil, also if it's hard to pull in to gear, you probably need synchros replaced.

6.Test the clutch to make sure that you can get it to hold the car on an incline, if not this tells you that you need a new pressure plate, at which point you should just change the clutch, pressure plate, and through out bearing, this is a big job.

7.Also check the automatic transmission if it has one of those for slippage, give the fluid the old smell test, if it smells burned, you can count on a rebuild.

Braking:
This is truly one of the most important parts to your safety, you should never overlook a brake check, or think that the signs don't mean anything, if the brake do a thing other then stopping the car, you should be worried.

1.Make sure that the car doesn't pull to one side, or another this indicates that you have worn brake pads on you disc brakes, or a bad caliper on the side that the car pulls to, you never want to discount anything.

2.Listen to the brakes for noises, such as squealing, rattling, grinding these are all very bad sounds to have coming fro your brakes, personally I just rebuild the entire braking system on any old car, it's just the safest thing to do, this is not an area to save money in.

At Normal Driving Speeds:
1.Listen for noises that don't belong such as, a clunk as you go over a bump, a knock when you turn the steering wheel as you go over an incline.

2.Listen for wind blowing through the car, this always means that you need new rubber seals, this is something that I just plan to replace when I start the work.

3.Does the car shake, or shimmy while driving high way speeds, this indicates an wheel balancing issue, a bent rim, or the drive line needs to be balanced.

4.After a turn does the steering wheel return to center, if not this indicates an alignment issue, you could have a steering box on the way out, a steering wheel to shimmy can indicate suspension problems as simple as bad shocks, to much worse issues, this is not a good thing.

Chevrolet Camaro a Timeless Classic

One car that has always captured my imagination is the Camaro, which my father used to own whenever he was younger. So growing up I have always been greatly interested in this car and have to say even with my bias opinion, it truly is a classic.

Chevrolet Camaro can be classified as both a muscle car and a pony car because of its diverse models. It was manufactured by General Motors under the brand name Chevrolet in 1967. Chevrolet Camaro was Ford Mustang's main rival. The very first time it was introduced, the media asked the production managers what a Camaro is. Their response was really quite clever, as they replied that a Camaro is a small ferocious animal that eats Mustangs. This was clearly a direct assault on Ford Mustang. Since Ford Mustang was the number one selling car during those days, they were the number one target of Chevrolet. Luckily, Chevrolet took the chance and brought home the bacon.

Did you know that Chevrolet Camaro has five generations? The first generation has two versions - the coupe and convertible models. These two models went out on the market in 1967. The second generation was produced in the 70s as tons of alterations were made. The new designs added more room for a larger space, new outer shell, an A-arm front suspension and leaf springs for extra security. This car was included in the top ten best cars in the world. Since change is inevitable, Chevrolet had to make yet another innovation for their vehicle. This was when the third generation came about. The third generation used the latest technology in improving the car's performance. Among those changes were the manual and automatic transmissions, fuel injections, and the standard four-cylinder engines. The fourth and fifth generations were just about the same. Engines were improved and the appearance continued to become more ultramodern. On April 10, 2010, the Camaro received the award, the "World Car Design of the Year", an anticipated award they truly deserve.

1969 Chevy Camaro Z28

It wasn't the fastest muscle car, but with single-season styling and a unique combination of brake, engine, exhaust, and induction options, the 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 was arguably the most desirable Z28 of all.

Adding $458 to the $2,726 base price of a Camaro coupe, RPO Z28 included the F41 handling suspension with E70X15 raised-letter tires on seven-inch wide rims, quicker steering, and twin rally stripes. Front disc brakes were standard on the 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z28, and for the first time, four-wheel discs were offered. They cost $500 and just 206 sets were delivered, about half going to full race cars. The solid-lifter 302-cid V-8 with an 850-cfm four-barrel carburetor was again exclusive to the Z28. Dynomometer tests at close to 400 horsepower made a joke of its 290-horsepower rating. Dealer-installed dual four-barrel carburetor options were offered even in '67, and for '69, $500 bought twin 600-cfm Holleys on a cross-ram manifold, though at no change to the 290-horsepower rating. Chambered exhaust pipes -- perhaps the least-restrictive exhausts Chevy ever offered -- also were available.

Yet another functional option unique to 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z28s was the $79 cowl-induction hood. It had a valve that snapped open at 80-percent throttle to draw in cool air from the base of the windshield.
1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z28s again came only with a Hurst-shifted close-ratio four-speed; 3.73:1 gears were standard, with up to 4.10:1 gears available. Positraction was an option. Styling could be enhanced by the Rally Sport package, which gained transparent louvers for its hidden-headlamp covers.
Handling was razor-sharp, aided by power steering that was both quick and had road feel. Four-barrel 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z28s could run the quarter mile in 14.8 seconds at 101 mph, but the small-block's shortage of low-end torque was multiplied with the dual-quads, which fed on sky-high revs. Even dropping the clutch at 4000 rpm produced stumble off the line.
As Trans Am titles in 1968 and '69 showed, the Z28 was a road-racer first, a street machine second. Drivers who understood its bare-knuckle character bought 7,199 of them for '68, and sales nearly tripled for the 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 -- a record that would stand until 1978.

The '69 Z28 was one of the hottest-looking rides of the classic muscle car era, and showed what Chevy stylists could do to express performance and excitement.

2010 Chevrolet Camaro

The 2010 Chevrolet Camaro marks the return of this General Motors division's iconic "pony car." It bows as a 2-door coupe. A 2-door convertible version is due in early calendar 2011. The 2010 Camaro shares some of its basic design with the now-discontinued Pontiac G8 large sedan. It wears body styling inspired by the 1969 Camaro. LS, 1LT, 2LT, 1SS, and 2SS trim levels are offered. Two engines are available--a V6 and a V8. The V6 is a 3.6-liter unit that produces 304 horsepower. It's available on LS and LT. SS versions with a manual transmission get a 426-horsepower 6.2-liter V8. Automatic-equipped SS models also get a 6.2-liter V8, but it makes 400 horsepower and features GM's Active Fuel Management cylinder deactivation. V6 versions also offer a manual or automatic transmission. Available safety features include ABS, traction control, antiskid system, front-side airbags, and curtain-side airbags. An RS Package for LT and SS models includes bi-xenon headlights, specific trim, and on LT versions, 20-inch wheels. All Camaros are available with 21-inch wheels. Rear-obstacle detection is standard on the 2LT and 2SS and optional on the 1LT. Other available features include a wireless cell-phone link, USB port, satellite radio, and remote engine start. An optional Transformers Special Edition package includes specific trim inspired by the movie of the same name.


Consumer Guide Automotive places each vehicle into one of 18 classes based on size, price, and market position. The Sporty/Performance-Car class consists of 2-seat roadsters, 4-cylinder hatchbacks, and V8 muscle cars. Regardless of configuration, all have an emphasis on affordable performance.

3.10.11

1967 CAMARO RS/SS PRO TOURING SHOW & GO BIG BLOCK $67,000

1967 CAMARO RS/SS PRO TOURING SHOW & GO BIG BLOCK $67,000 (717)-801-0352

Motor -- Highly Built Tall Deck 427, dynoed at 454 Rear Wheel Horse Power
Transmission -- Tremec 6 Speed with Hydraulic Clutch
Brakes -- CPP with SSBC 4-Wheel Slotted & Drilled Rotors
Paint: Black PPG base coat/clear coat, Custom Red PPG Tri-Stage Candy Pearl
Wheels: 18x8's and 20x10's Foose
Interior -- One Off Complete Custom Leather
Running Gear & Other: 12 Bolt, Multi-Leaf - 3.73 Posi, Polished Aluminum Drive Shaft, with Detroit Speed Polished narrowed Stainless Steel Gas Tank, Detroit Speed RS Headlights & Windsheild Wiper Motor
Wiring -- Complete American Auto Wire Factory Fit

Paint & Body -- Body completely stripped to bare metal top to bottom and placed on a rotisserie. All quarters and floor pans are original to the car. Car was mini-tubed professionally in the rear. New doors (driver and passenger -- original doors had skins put on them at some point in time, didn't like the quality of the job), front fenders, 4" steel cowl hood, lower valance to transform the car into RS model. Bottom of the car including the fender wells, smoothed firewall, inner finders, core support and stripes are PPG Tri-Stage. Power Coated Sub Frame. Paint is a solid 10/10 with absolutely no orange peel, haze or anything.

Motor -- 427 Tall Deck, 4.030 stroke, 10.5-1 Pistons, 6.535 Long H-Beam Rods, Roller Comp Cam Valve Lift .653 Intake/.660 Exhaust, Big-Brody Brodix Heads, Gold Full Roller Rockers, Dougs Headers, Pro Billet MSD Distributor, 6-AL2 MSD Ignition, Serpentine Belt, Dual Electric Fans, Polished Aluminum radiator, 7 ¼" Flange Demon Carb., 7 qt. oil pan, High Volume Oil Pump. Motor is very reliable and fires up everytime without any hesitation.

Suspension - QA1 Adjustable front coil overs in front, Tubular upper and lower control arms, Multi leaf springs in rear with air shocks

Interior -- Complete custom 100% Ostrich leather, front and rear buckets with power driver seat, Kenwood sound system with touch CD/DVD, Bluetooth, (navigation upgradable) with two hidden 12" subs, and smooth headliner with overhead console. 6 point roll cage, TV in the trunk that plays a slide show of the build.

Summary -- This car is completely new from every bolt top to bottom. Don't be fooled by the others who claim "complete frame off restoration" until you've seen this car.


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